OK. I have the 1.5 gallon kit. I have read the instructions. I have looked at the online manual. I asked for online help and got an answer. However, I feel like I am getting more stupid by the minute. Please help me before I drown myself in the bucket! How many total nickel credits does the 1.5 gallon kit start out with? The instructions refer to 1100 "Square inches available", but that seems to imply a 60 min plate time. So would that be 66000 total nickel credits? 1100 seems too low. 66000 seems too high. The online manual says (after some math) that there are 360 nickel credits per pint which would be 4320 total credits for the 1.5 gallon bath. But that sounds like that is for the non-FTFE kit. I have plated so far about 1500 nickel credit worth of stuff with any replenishing and so far everything plates fine. Help!

I am going to build an oven in the upcoming weeks, my residential oven is not up to par with what i am doing. I have reviewed many of the schematics on the site and i am seeing that almost every one has a neutral wire in the circuit. some have the neutral wire going to ground and other to the socket.

I am in a shop that has many 220 Volt single phase sockets for welding, all three prong, 2 120 volt and a ground. due to cost i can not run a new line from the breaker with a ground and a neutral. Is there any problem with me tying the neutral line to ground in any of the circuts? or is there a circut floating around that does not need a neutral line?

Because my oven is going to be in a school shop it needs to be inspected after it is built. so i need to know that everything is up to Canadian code.

Thank you,

Hi all im new to this forum and need some help.

Iv been polishing things the old way, sanding by hand with sand paper starting from 80 up to 2000 then polishing by hand 4 times to give it that real shine but i cant do it anymore its to hard and time consuming. I remember i did my simmons wheels sanding the dents smoothing them out getting rid of all the gutter rash re polishing again and again it took me a week to complete.

Let me start of with this. I want to polish a inlet manifold thats going on my rx3. Its very very rough and i have polished one of these on my old car the old way but i had blisters and no finger prints left by the time i finished. I started it with 60grit because its so so rough and still i cant manage to get into the small spots. Iv worked atleast an hour on this and still looks really bad like a meteor collided.

Can people please give me advice on what i should use. I have read up some info on here about greasless but i don’t exactly know what that is. Is it like sand paper you can get it in different grits? I have no clue i was thinking about getting myself a dremel but there’s no decent air dremels at shops around me.

Please either post a link to a thread or help me out letting me know step by step what i should do. Thankyou

Just wanted to send a thank you to acidrain and sswee for helping with the troubleshooting.

I ended up cutting the acid ratio, which in turned made my PS much more responsive. I also wired up my bus bar so I am getting excelent connection. I also picked up a 1/2 hp chiller brand new for 300 less then suggested price (nice find).

With all the changes I have not had a problem. The only time i get a problem is if i was too warm in the tank (anything above 65, hence the reason for getting the chiller). Now my only problem is matching my colors and as far as I’m concerned, right now, that is a good thing.

Thanks again for the help.

I’d like to hear peoples opinions on which route I should take in silver/nickel plating my fishing lures. I bought a HP 0-10v power supply and some copper powder to mix with clear lacquer to make my lures conductive and am unsure as to which solutions I should buy. Ideally I would like to make my lures like most major companies do. Most lures have a very thin layer of metallic chrome that peels fairly easy after the hooks have worn through. I plan to use this base to paint over and then clear with a UV protective automotive finish.

I was told a decorative nickel finish would yield these results, but would like to hear from people here. What are the advantages/disadvantages to using acid bases vs acid free? is any solution more durable than the other? also what will be the most cost effective?

To note my lures are a bit larger than what is pictured. They are roughly 6-10" long,1-2" thick,and 1-3" tall.

I appreciate any help you all can offer!

Hi Guys,

Lots of great info and builds here, thanks to all for sharing.

The goal of this build is to replace the old kitchen oven I’ve been using for about a year now. Aside from the occasional axle or bumper I’ve been fine with it’s capacity, I’m purely a hobbyist. Problem is my garage fits exactly 2 cars. It’s time to reclaim my second parking space. I have a ton of storage in the attic above and outside, but no floor space to accommodate an oven. Needless to say I could use some help getting creative.

The idea I keep coming back to is a 2 piece design including a "base" and a "lid"
The "base" would double as a powdercoating booth. To cure you simply set the "lid" on top of it. The "base" would include the bottom and perhaps 2 walls, the "lid" would have the other 2 walls, top, and element(s). When not in use I could throw the pieces in the attic.

This approach would enable me to coat then cure without disturbing things. Seems like an approach not used by folks here.

Other ideas…. A bunch of panels that latch together, try and deal with a lamp, just make a really small oven with a door….

Anyone care to offer sentiments or suggestions?

Anodizing – This is my first post . I have been experimenting
with anodizing for a little bit . I started with a Battery charger
and found it to be inconsistent so i switched to a Constant
Current power supply – 8 amps .I also ordered the die
from Caswell . I found the fabric die poor to use . So I’m
starting to get some consistent parts anodized . But my one
problem is a part that goes on a motor cross bike that
fits on the upper shock . I have tried 3 times to anodize
but i have had no success . It must be made of different
type of aluminium ?

Hey all I am looking for input on making samples to show to potential customers. Any suggestions? Old Car parts? Scrap meatal?

Thanks

Let me know how my wiring diagram looks, i have a 3wire 220 with a ground so no nuetral so i will be running a seperate cord for the 110v side, let me know if im wrong on anything

Hi Guys, im really new here, I have a question i need someone to answer for me . i need to anodize a part (6063 aluminum), to 1.0 mil or 25 microns. I have the LCD anodising kit, my part is 168 square inches, and i have a power supply that is cpable of reaching 30 amps and 30 volts. Some of the calculations i have done seem to give me different times. I am basically looking at anodizing at the quickest time permisable for the surface area i have without causing too much heat and damage, acid is 1:3 to distilled water. If anybody could answer this problem, i would be sooooooooooooooo greatful.

Regards
George